120601 - Beginning in Astrophotography
EQUIPMENT:
camera=Nikon D90 (stk)
optics=NIKKOR 18-105mm DX kit zoom
filter=(none)
mount=simple fixed tripod
click image to enlarge
The most frequent question seen in online forums for Astrophotography (AP) is, "What equipment do I need to get started?" ...and by far, the best answer is, "Start with what you have."
The vast majority of us who want to experiment in AP already own a digital camera; because, we are already established in our hobby through daytime photography. A DSLR mounted on a sturdy, medium-duty tripod, and if you do not have a built-in IR remote (...like an electronic form of release cable) an $inexpensive intervalometer, is plenty of equipment to get started.
With that said, there are some "best practices" worth talking about to help with getting started in AP; especially when it comes to equipment...
Referring to "200731---es102cf-refractor" in this collection provides an overview of recommended equipment for the "long-game" in some of the more common 'styles' of AP. In addition, the following table of 'recommended' equipment provides a more in-depth and detailed look into specifics. While not all-encompassing of every nuance in the hobby, this information (hopefully) provides enough detail to 'assist' with making decisions on acquisition of equipment for the "long-term"; ...the purpose being to reduce duplication of effort and unnecessary expenditure of $resources, and to hold frustration and disappointment to a minimum.
AP has an extremely 'steep and long learning curve'. That is, no one runs outside with their nice, new DSLR camera and immediately starts capturing deep space images. There is a LOT to learn, a LOT of experimenting to do, and a LOT of trial-and-error to go thru. ...and, that will necessarily force you into following a structure and / or pattern of learning. Assuming you have an interest in capturing various formations of nebulosity that exist throughout the skies, and in keeping with the 'Start with what you have' theme, one (1) very good approach toward learning is to start with 'Wide Field' AP. For those who already own a DSLR, wide field is the least equipment intensive, and (arguably) the easiest style to learn. It is also a natural 'segway' into imaging DSO's when we get further along the learning curve. So, starting with Wide-Field... AP is a deep-dive study into extra-long exposure photography. ...This is a VERY DIFFERENT style of photography from the sub-second exposures of daytime photography. While not all digital cameras are created equal, the DSLR camera is (arguably) a very good choice with-which to get started, especially if you already own one. "Quick Shot" cameras (...there are as many names and descriptions for these style cameras as there are manufacturers...) need not apply. Here are a few reasons why: Your camera MUST be capable of full, manual control: ‒ Auto focus, vibration reduction, auto white balance, auto ISO, auto metering and active-dynamic lighting are all features designed to make operation of a digital camera more user friendly in the daytime. They are of no use at night. You must be able to either 'lock', or turn-off all of these features. ‒ In addition, you need to learn how to set your ISO, shutter speed, and aperture manually, and 'lock' them out of any automatic operation. ‒ and perhaps the most important new skill of all, is to learn how to focus ...in the dark ...manually. In order to be 'setup' for later expansion, the lens of your camera needs to be removable. ‒ This is so you can easily attach your camera to other astronomical equipment in the future should you decide to 'go deeper' into AP. ‒ Canon 'EF', Nikon 'F' and Sony 'E' are the DSLR lens mounts of choice for AP. If by chance you don't yet own a DSLR, but still want to embark down this "rabbit hole" (...as those of us who participate in this hobby call it), Canon is the manufacturer of choice. Please don't take this wrong; your host is actually a Nikon guy. ...because as outlined above, a full set of Nikon lenses with a Nikon D90 body were already in-play for daytime use. We are not "pushing" Canon equipment here. It's just that of all the manufacturers available; Canon has done the best job of interfacing with various manufacturers of AP equipment. For example, most any telescope available in the AP market today either comes with, or has readily available as accessories, various adapters and attachments for Canon DSLR cameras with 'EF' lenses. Nikon takes 2nd place; and Sony has made a few in-roads into the market in recent years. So for now, concentrate on a 'wide-angle' field-of-view (...that is, a 'short' focal length). Once you gain proficiency there, you can start working on tightening-in (zooming-in) on 'deeper' targets. For example with an 18-55mm kit lens, you should be able to get some very nice wide-angle starscape shots at FL~24mm, ISO=1600 and 15-20 second exposures. Yes, a "GoTo", fully tracking mount with an $$expensive telescope may be in your future. But for now, recommend you concentrate on learning the sky, and on how to control your camera. There have been more than a few folks who have taken a deep-dive into their first 'rig' only to figure-out this hobby is not for them. ...And don't let anyone tell you that you need to go $expensive to get started - because (they will argue) if you don't, you'll be changing-out all your equipment multiple times. That's simply not true. Concentrate on, and be inquisitive toward learning; not toward impulsive buying. Learn what the capabilities of a piece of equipment are before you acquire it. Use the AP-Style chart above to assist. You're the one in control of where you go with this great hobby. Besides, AP equipment tends to hold its value well. You can always get on Cloudy Nights Classifieds and sell it to another deserving beginner when you're ready to move up. You don't need to get into guiding yet; that'll come later. For now, concentrate on learning the sky, and becoming proficient at capturing wide-field views of the Milky Way and whole constellation starscapes, and teach yourself how to control your camera. You should go-ahead and plan to dive into processing your exposures with a layers-based photography software like Photoshop, Affinity Photo or GIMP. In the summer, look for the central core nucleus of the Milky Way. The constellations of Sagittarius and Scorpio hold some of the most rich areas in the entire sky for star clusters, nebulosity and DSO's. This segment of the sky will start moving into early-morning views in late April into May, and will be in prime, full-evening positions through June and July. In winter, look for the constellation of the mighty hunter, Orion. It starts becoming visible in the early mornings of October and November, with full-evening views starting in December and lasting thru February. Orion is rich in both emission and reflection nebulae, as well as star clusters, and dark nebulae. In both seasons, look for dark evenings when we are in "new Moon"; between the quarter Moons; that's when it is the darkest, and your images will yield their best contrast and detail. Get online and watch videos by Trevor Jones of AstroBackyard.com, and by Nico Carver in his Nebula Photos YT channel. Both of these gentlemen have been producing YT's on AP for a number of years. Go to the 'bottom' of their video library stack, and start working your way 'up' (forward) from there. As an 'aside' ...With the recent advent of "smart telescope" technology, a very strong argument is being made that it is actually a 'better' starting point in AP than with a DSLR or a dedicated astro-cam. While this is a strong argument, it is the firm belief of your Host that starting-out with this technology has three (3) distinct disadvantages: 1) As of this writing, smart scopes are generally only capable of capturing objects that fall within a narrow 'mid-range' of focal lengths. At one end, they do not (yet) have the capability to image small planets or DSO's. The optics being used are simply too small to capture planets (other than the Sun or Moon) or very small DSO's (like the more distant galaxies). At the other end of the range and for the older models, they are not setup for wide field either. They cannot capture starscapes like the Milky Way. (Update: the manufacturer ZWO has just released a new model that contains a separate 2nd sensor designed specifically for wide-field, and appears to provide full capability for capture of the Milky Way. So with that said, and assuming there is a very high interest in this new technology, recommend study of these features closely before making an acquisition; particularly if looking at used equipment. Former owners will likely be looking to unload older units so they can 'move-up'. Again, take time to learn about these advancements and how to identify them; and don't buy on impulse.) 2) Smart-Scope technology makes AP too EASY. ...That is, it effectively usurps the need to learn anything about the fundamentals of photography, or the pursuit of astronomical scientific knowledge. As a result, it effectively renders one unable to progress any further past the capabilities of the machine. ...no knowledge gained for application and progression into higher levels of AP, nor into the scientific fields of Physics and Astronomy. For those who enjoy learning; a smart-scope may not be the best 1st choice. 3) While there is some level of outreach capability available by way of Electronically Assisted Astronomy ("EAA"), smart scopes generally lack the direct capability of observation with one's eye(s). If you have a desire to conduct outreach with other people in a social setting, these machines make that outreach harder to achieve. ...there's just something 'special' about the simplicity of looking thru an eyepiece and seeing with one's own eye(s) the Copernicus Crater, Jupiter's Galilean moons, the rings of Saturn or the Trapezium cluster inside the Orion Nebula. Your host tends to liken the new smartscope technology to that of a portable "Boom-Box" stereo system. It is somewhat difficult to compare it to a high-fidelity, component stereo system; yet, each has its place for application. If none of these arguments concern you, then certainly, the new "smart" technology may be for you. The most important aspect of all is, ...just have fun!
AP has an extremely 'steep and long learning curve'. That is, no one runs outside with their nice, new DSLR camera and immediately starts capturing deep space images. There is a LOT to learn, a LOT of experimenting to do, and a LOT of trial-and-error to go thru. ...and, that will necessarily force you into following a structure and / or pattern of learning. Assuming you have an interest in capturing various formations of nebulosity that exist throughout the skies, and in keeping with the 'Start with what you have' theme, one (1) very good approach toward learning is to start with 'Wide Field' AP. For those who already own a DSLR, wide field is the least equipment intensive, and (arguably) the easiest style to learn. It is also a natural 'segway' into imaging DSO's when we get further along the learning curve. So, starting with Wide-Field... AP is a deep-dive study into extra-long exposure photography. ...This is a VERY DIFFERENT style of photography from the sub-second exposures of daytime photography. While not all digital cameras are created equal, the DSLR camera is (arguably) a very good choice with-which to get started, especially if you already own one. "Quick Shot" cameras (...there are as many names and descriptions for these style cameras as there are manufacturers...) need not apply. Here are a few reasons why: Your camera MUST be capable of full, manual control: ‒ Auto focus, vibration reduction, auto white balance, auto ISO, auto metering and active-dynamic lighting are all features designed to make operation of a digital camera more user friendly in the daytime. They are of no use at night. You must be able to either 'lock', or turn-off all of these features. ‒ In addition, you need to learn how to set your ISO, shutter speed, and aperture manually, and 'lock' them out of any automatic operation. ‒ and perhaps the most important new skill of all, is to learn how to focus ...in the dark ...manually. In order to be 'setup' for later expansion, the lens of your camera needs to be removable. ‒ This is so you can easily attach your camera to other astronomical equipment in the future should you decide to 'go deeper' into AP. ‒ Canon 'EF', Nikon 'F' and Sony 'E' are the DSLR lens mounts of choice for AP. If by chance you don't yet own a DSLR, but still want to embark down this "rabbit hole" (...as those of us who participate in this hobby call it), Canon is the manufacturer of choice. Please don't take this wrong; your host is actually a Nikon guy. ...because as outlined above, a full set of Nikon lenses with a Nikon D90 body were already in-play for daytime use. We are not "pushing" Canon equipment here. It's just that of all the manufacturers available; Canon has done the best job of interfacing with various manufacturers of AP equipment. For example, most any telescope available in the AP market today either comes with, or has readily available as accessories, various adapters and attachments for Canon DSLR cameras with 'EF' lenses. Nikon takes 2nd place; and Sony has made a few in-roads into the market in recent years. So for now, concentrate on a 'wide-angle' field-of-view (...that is, a 'short' focal length). Once you gain proficiency there, you can start working on tightening-in (zooming-in) on 'deeper' targets. For example with an 18-55mm kit lens, you should be able to get some very nice wide-angle starscape shots at FL~24mm, ISO=1600 and 15-20 second exposures. Yes, a "GoTo", fully tracking mount with an $$expensive telescope may be in your future. But for now, recommend you concentrate on learning the sky, and on how to control your camera. There have been more than a few folks who have taken a deep-dive into their first 'rig' only to figure-out this hobby is not for them. ...And don't let anyone tell you that you need to go $expensive to get started - because (they will argue) if you don't, you'll be changing-out all your equipment multiple times. That's simply not true. Concentrate on, and be inquisitive toward learning; not toward impulsive buying. Learn what the capabilities of a piece of equipment are before you acquire it. Use the AP-Style chart above to assist. You're the one in control of where you go with this great hobby. Besides, AP equipment tends to hold its value well. You can always get on Cloudy Nights Classifieds and sell it to another deserving beginner when you're ready to move up. You don't need to get into guiding yet; that'll come later. For now, concentrate on learning the sky, and becoming proficient at capturing wide-field views of the Milky Way and whole constellation starscapes, and teach yourself how to control your camera. You should go-ahead and plan to dive into processing your exposures with a layers-based photography software like Photoshop, Affinity Photo or GIMP. In the summer, look for the central core nucleus of the Milky Way. The constellations of Sagittarius and Scorpio hold some of the most rich areas in the entire sky for star clusters, nebulosity and DSO's. This segment of the sky will start moving into early-morning views in late April into May, and will be in prime, full-evening positions through June and July. In winter, look for the constellation of the mighty hunter, Orion. It starts becoming visible in the early mornings of October and November, with full-evening views starting in December and lasting thru February. Orion is rich in both emission and reflection nebulae, as well as star clusters, and dark nebulae. In both seasons, look for dark evenings when we are in "new Moon"; between the quarter Moons; that's when it is the darkest, and your images will yield their best contrast and detail. Get online and watch videos by Trevor Jones of AstroBackyard.com, and by Nico Carver in his Nebula Photos YT channel. Both of these gentlemen have been producing YT's on AP for a number of years. Go to the 'bottom' of their video library stack, and start working your way 'up' (forward) from there. As an 'aside' ...With the recent advent of "smart telescope" technology, a very strong argument is being made that it is actually a 'better' starting point in AP than with a DSLR or a dedicated astro-cam. While this is a strong argument, it is the firm belief of your Host that starting-out with this technology has three (3) distinct disadvantages: 1) As of this writing, smart scopes are generally only capable of capturing objects that fall within a narrow 'mid-range' of focal lengths. At one end, they do not (yet) have the capability to image small planets or DSO's. The optics being used are simply too small to capture planets (other than the Sun or Moon) or very small DSO's (like the more distant galaxies). At the other end of the range and for the older models, they are not setup for wide field either. They cannot capture starscapes like the Milky Way. (Update: the manufacturer ZWO has just released a new model that contains a separate 2nd sensor designed specifically for wide-field, and appears to provide full capability for capture of the Milky Way. So with that said, and assuming there is a very high interest in this new technology, recommend study of these features closely before making an acquisition; particularly if looking at used equipment. Former owners will likely be looking to unload older units so they can 'move-up'. Again, take time to learn about these advancements and how to identify them; and don't buy on impulse.) 2) Smart-Scope technology makes AP too EASY. ...That is, it effectively usurps the need to learn anything about the fundamentals of photography, or the pursuit of astronomical scientific knowledge. As a result, it effectively renders one unable to progress any further past the capabilities of the machine. ...no knowledge gained for application and progression into higher levels of AP, nor into the scientific fields of Physics and Astronomy. For those who enjoy learning; a smart-scope may not be the best 1st choice. 3) While there is some level of outreach capability available by way of Electronically Assisted Astronomy ("EAA"), smart scopes generally lack the direct capability of observation with one's eye(s). If you have a desire to conduct outreach with other people in a social setting, these machines make that outreach harder to achieve. ...there's just something 'special' about the simplicity of looking thru an eyepiece and seeing with one's own eye(s) the Copernicus Crater, Jupiter's Galilean moons, the rings of Saturn or the Trapezium cluster inside the Orion Nebula. Your host tends to liken the new smartscope technology to that of a portable "Boom-Box" stereo system. It is somewhat difficult to compare it to a high-fidelity, component stereo system; yet, each has its place for application. If none of these arguments concern you, then certainly, the new "smart" technology may be for you. The most important aspect of all is, ...just have fun!
click image to enlarge